Spiny oyster shell (Spondylus princeps) is a bright red to deep orange material that has been part of Southwest trade and jewelry for more than 1,500 years. Pre‑contact routes carried the shell from the Gulf of California into the Pueblo world, where it became a staple of ceremonial and everyday adornment. The shell is used in several colour grades: red, the most sought shade ranging from bright crimson to deep red; orange, a classic Southwest accent; purple, a rarer hue with darker purple‑brown tones; and white, the natural interior of the shell used occasionally in inlay work. These colours appear in heishi strands, inlay pieces, cabochons and mosaic designs across Santo Domingo, Zuni, Navajo and Pueblo traditions. Spiny oyster is harvested commercially in the Gulf of California under Mexican fisheries management, making it a fast‑reproducing and sustainable material when harvested within regulations. Identification relies on the visible shell‑layer structure, subtle colour variation, and characteristic weight, while care involves avoiding prolonged water exposure and harsh chemicals.
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